We had had a busy day on Mount Desert Island. In the morning we went to the annual Somesville Library Book and Blueberry Fair. In the afternoon we kayaked on Somes Sound, where we saw an eagle and two seals who were almost as eager to look at us as we at them. After a cocktail party at the Causeway Club in Southwest Harbor, we headed to dinner at the Claremont Hotel.
We got lost.
Even at the risk of a wrong turn, the Claremont Hotel is a destination worth finding because, among the many excellent restaurants on Mount Desert Island, its restaurant is one of the rare finds that inspires diners equally with its cuisine and setting.
The Claremont Hotel is at the end of Clark Point Road in Southwest Harbor, then you must take a left onto Claremont Road across from the harbor. There stands the grand summer resort hotel from 1883, known for its outdoor activities and spirited competition on the croquet court. In fact, it offered such a sublime Maine coast summer experience that, in 1885, well-known landscape artist Xanthus Smith painted it in exchange for an extension of his stay there. The restaurant is named after him, and today that painting hangs in the dining room overlooking the same view it depicts.
Even though we were seated at a table for two to enjoy both Somes Sound and Acadia’s mountains, as I began to consider my dinner options, I couldn’t help but notice the activity through a side window. It was a good sign. A woman from the kitchen was picking fresh herbs in the garden.
My selection of an appetizer, a goat cheese tartlet with roasted beets, featured a nasturium from that garden. My partner chose a panzanella salad with mozzarella, olives, red onions, and red and yellow tomatoes. Our candlelit dinner continued with grilled swordfish and pan-seared duck breast. The fish was so fresh and the charcoal essence of the grilling so compelling that the mango/avocado salsa was only an enhancement, not the focal point of flavor it often is. I received only one offer of a taste of the duck from my partner who usually volunteers to swap entrees.
Chef Daniel Sweimler, who had stints as executive chef at two NYC restaurants, is well known today as one of Maine’s top chefs who feature local and organic in their foods. Among his sources for produce for Xanthus is 14 Angels Farm in Cherryfield, owned by his mother. Sweimler, who seems as popular with his staff as diners, changes the menu at Xanthus daily.
If you are visiting Acadia National Park for an anniversary or other milestone, consider dining at Xanthus. Unlike most other restaurants on Mount Desert Island (even the best ones), you won’t see people there in their hiking boots. In fact, you’re sure to see more than a few blue blazers. Xanthus is the perfect place for dinner to mark a special occasion or to end a vacation in Acadia National Park.
To plot a day like the one I’ve described here, visit OUR ACADIA. It offers itineraries, recommendations for guides and outfitters, and extensive reviews of restaurants throughout Mount Desert Island, including Bar Harbor.