How Long It Takes to Climb the Precipice and Other Notes from an October Trip to Acadia

I recommend visiting Acadia when the blueberry bushes have turned red.  The air is crisp, most places are still open, and everyone is so much more relaxed than in summertime. 

And so it was on a recent October morning when my companion and I decided to hike the Precipice.  My Somesville neighbor Bill leaned against the picket fence separating our houses and stated in a Maine monotone, “It’s the only trail in Acadia where people have died.” 

The Precipice Trail climbs 930 feet in 0.8 mile to the top of Champlain Mountain.  With Dorr and Cadillac to the west, Champlain is the closest mountain in Acadia to Frenchman Bay.  Thus, the foghorn provided musical accompaniment as we scrambled boulders and quickly came to the first rock face that required climbing iron rungs.  That initial reach was particularly strenuous, reinforcing the message that the Precipice is maintained as a non-technical climbing route, not a hiking trail. 

It should have taken us an hour and fifteen minutes to get to the top.  But each switchback and set of boulders seemed to be another photo opp.  Then there were all of those relaxed visitors.  The couple from Atlanta.  The serious climber who hikes Sargent in the winter and knew exactly where the peregrines nest.  The Mid-Coast couple who told us lobstermen were making four times the average Maine income before the recession hit.  And the guy from Boston who got so involved recommending restaurants to the couple from Atlanta that his girlfriend took off without him. 

Needless to say, to get to the top it took us, well, it took a while. 

All of this camaraderie added to the exhilaration of the height, the iron ladders, and the ledges with no protective railings, including the one I crawled across because the rock was wet.  

We came down North Face Trail (formerly known as Bear Brook Trail) which, after the stunning views we’d had of the Porcupine Islands from the top, continued to thrill us with its covering of fiery blueberry bushes.  Our only complaint, which also applies to Kurt Diederich’s Climb which we did in August, is that the Jackson Laboratory buildings are a hideous blight on the landscape.  We connected to East Face Trail (now called Orange and Black) to descend to the Park Loop Road and walk back to the car.  Next time, we will consider hiking South Face Trail to Sand Beach, the longer route taken by our Mid-Coast compatriots. 

I was so high (pardon me) from this climb that we decided to fit one more excursion into our day: Hunters Brook Trail.  The path ran for 0.3 mile along a lovely brook, over wooden walkways, across a bridge, and through balsam firs that immediately transformed October into December.  The trail itself would have sufficed, but the ultimate prize was Hunters Beach.   This crescent of pink granite cobblestones offers iconic Maine coast views. 

For the purposes of my photograph below, I’d like to say that we then went home for tea and cranberry bread, which was the “welcome” gift from a friend and neighbor.  However, we didn’t have time.  We drove directly from Hunters Beach to Thurston’s Lobster Pound in Bernard, the day before their season ended, and guess who was there – the couple from Atlanta.

For specific recommendations and contact information for guides, tours, restaurants, and inns, visit OUR ACADIA.  You can find special tips for when to visit, what to do on a rainy day, and how to pack.  It also features tips for fall trips and sample itineraries.

Planning A Foliage Trip to Acadia National Park?

Witch Hole Pond, October 2, Courtesy of Clyde W. Voigtlander

I’ll never forget the flight I took to Maine when, upon landing, the little boy behind me looked out the window at the evergreen forests and gleefully screamed, “It’s Maine!  It’s Maine!” 

With exactly the same excitement, I’m going to Acadia the weekend of October 16^th.  But I’m eager to see trees of crimson, orange, and gold. 

As I sit here in New York City, I keep checking the “official” fall foliage site for Maine.  This week, although two northern zones are already at peak, Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island has only seen moderate color change in the leaves. 

My fingers are crossed that a wildly windy day won’t blow them all away before my visit.  As Robert Frost says, autumn’s gold is “her hardest hue to hold.” 

Weather.com says the October temperatures range from an average low of 38 to a high of 58.  However, I’m hoping for the golden days in the 70s that we experienced two years ago.  Still, I’ll pack plenty of fleeces and maybe even light gloves for hiking. 

The next thing I have to worry about: Which restaurants will be open when I visit? 

I checked around since many close after Columbus Day.  On its Facebook page Thurston’s, my favorite lobster pound, says it’s open through Columbus Day weekend.  But when I called, they told me they will be open through Sunday, October 18, this year. 

Many of MDI’s other top restaurants will also still be open.  Town Hill Bistro, rated #1 of 133 Bar Harbor restaurants by the TripAdvisor public, is open year-round.  Chef Kyle Yarborough is looking forward to bringing fall flair to lamb, scallops, and hanger steak at Mache Bistro in Bar Harbor.  And James Lindquist will surely offer seasonal temptations at Red Sky, although doesn’t this appetizer staple sound perfect for fall:  Shitake and Crimini mushrooms and sautéed locally grown Swiss Chard layered with crispy polenta and finished with a balsamic reduction and Parmigiano-Reggiano? 

Full reviews of all of these restaurants can be found at this round-up of the best restaurants in Bar Harbor and the other villages on Mount Desert Island. 

And you’ll also want to check out these other tips for fall trips at OUR ACADIA!

How a National Park in Maine Turned Me into a Compulsive Blogger

This week the Ken Burns’ series, The National Parks: America’s Best Idea, on PBS brought the history of our national parks to life by presenting it through the stories of individuals.  From John Muir to a childless couple from Lincoln, Nebraska, they told us about the importance of natural beauty in their lives.

My first encounter with Acadia National Park in Maine was on a carriage-driving trip.  A New York City executive, I was in the midst of a divorce, when my sister, an independent-minded horsewoman from New Hampshire, invited me to join her and some other women in Maine. They loaded their carriages and horses into trailers and a bag or two into their pick-up trucks, and off we went. 

John D. Rockefeller, Jr. would have applauded such an introduction to Acadia.  Between 1913 and 1940 he developed a system of roads and bridges that traversed meadows and brooks and encircled mountains.  It was his vision that Acadia National Park should be seen behind a horse.  Today, the 57 miles of carriage roads he constructed are used by cyclists and hikers, as well as carriage drivers. 

While the New Hampshire ladies drove their carriages and groomed their ponies, I hiked around Jordan Pond.  We convened to have lemonade and popovers on a lawn that has hosted tea for visitors since 1896.  In the evenings we dined together at our host’s cottage on Southwest Harbor and congregated at the best local lobster pounds. 

Here I found the unique place where the mountains meet the sea. 

Acadia National Park, located on Mount Desert Island, has 24 mountains, the highest mountain on the eastern seaboard, the only fiord in North America, glacial lakes, boreal forests, and 130 miles of hiking trails to see all of it. 

I was smitten.  It was time to go home, but an irrational passion for the place had overtaken me. 

George Dorr first went to Mount Desert Island in 1868.  Educated in Europe, he traveled extensively there, but chose to reside on Mount Desert Island.  Although he had inherited an extraordinary fortune, he spent his time hiking, biking, swimming and building trails. When he died at age 94, he had spent his entire fortune purchasing land for Acadia National Park.  

When I got back into my NYC routine, I still wanted to talk about the peregrines nesting on the Precipice.  People at work wanted to talk about Alex Rodriguez.  I was thinking about hiking the Western Mountains vs. Penobscot Mountain.  They were thinking about Gossip Girl vs. NYC Prep. 

So, I started blogging.  When is the best time to visit Acadia National Park? Where should you go sea kayaking?  Which hikes are best for kids?  I pulled it together in a Web site about OUR ACADIA – our national park on one of the world’s most beautiful islands. 

This is the power of the places that have been preserved by the National Park System.  

Yet even within this exclusive set, Acadia National Park is unique because it is the only national park in which most of the land was privately purchased and then donated to a land trust that became the park.  That, in particular, tells the story of how Mount Desert Island has captivated people, who then preserved it as a national park for us all.  

I need to pay bills.  There’s a report I should look at.  My daughter needs me to help her with her new laptop.  And I’m thinking that my next post will be about LEAVE NO TRACE and other tips for hiking in Acadia National Park.

Top Ten Things to Do When You Visit Acadia National Park in Maine

Ken Burns’ new series “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea” may have piqued your interest about Acadia, the easternmost park in the system.  It’s where the mountains meet the sea, and a desire to “do everything” co-exists happily with a sense of calm contemplation.  

Acadia National Park is about three hours north of Portland, in relatively easy proximity to the metropolitan areas along the eastern seaboard.  It occupies about two-thirds of Mount Desert Island, the most well-known town of which is Bar Harbor.  The village where I live was founded in 1761.  Acadia’s boundaries are intermingled with the communities of this New England island. This adds considerably to the charm that captivates park visitors. 

Here are some favorite things to do both in and around the park. 

1. Watch the sunrise from Cadillac Mountain.   At some 1500 feet, it is the first place from which to witness dawn in the United States, and it is breathtaking.  Make sure you wear a warm fleece even if it’s August.
2. Drive the Park Loop Road.  You can get your best overview of Acadia by driving these 27 miles of unsurpassed beauty, created in part through the masterful collaboration of John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr.  There are many lookouts so have your camera ready for this drive.
3. Eat lobster.  Whether you want a lobster roll, lobster stew, or a two-pounder steamed, you can find a wide range of topnotch restaurants, harbor-side lobster pounds, and quaint cafes to serve you.  Our favorite is Thurston’s in Bass Harbor.
4. Go biking.  Thanks to John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Acadia offers 57 miles of car-free carriage roads for cycling.  There is plenty of parking at Hull’s Cove Visitor Center.  Or, if you prefer, you can take a horse-drawn carriage drive from Wildwood Stables and see the park the way Mr. Rockefeller intended.
5. Stroll, hike, or climb.  The park boasts 130 miles of well-maintained hiking trails that appeal to all levels of fitness.  The most exciting trails, such as the Precipice and Jordan Cliffs, feature rungs and ladders.  A beautiful moderately challenging hike is Acadia Mountain, overlooking Somes Sound, the only fiord in North America.  If you’re looking for easier strolls, consider Asticou Trail and Wonderland – they’re lovely.
6. Have lemonade at Jordan Pond House.  Select a biking or hiking route that stems from behind Jordan Pond House so that you can conclude your afternoon with lemonade and popovers on the lawn looking towards the Bubbles, a sight that has mesmerized visitors at teatime since 1896.  It’s a favorite destination for everyone, but worth the wait.
7. Visit Sand Beach.  This sandy crescent has cliffs at each side and the Beehive Trail behind it.  The views won’t disappoint, even if the chilly water does.  Another option for a swim is the beach at Echo Lake on the island’s “Quietside.”
8. Touch nature – literally.  There are several enterprises, including Mount Desert Biological Laboratories, The Dive-In Theatre, and the Mount Desert Oceanarium, that feature touch tanks full of lobsters, crabs, and sea cucumbers. I always end up liking this stuff just as much as the kids do.
9. Learn from a park ranger.  The National Park Service offers very entertaining talks and walks on subjects ranging tidal pools to birds of prey to the stars over Sand Beach.  Scan The Beaver Log to figure out how you can fit in more than one.
10. Get out on the water.  This great national park is on an island so you must see it from the vantage point of the sea.  Whether you’re powering yourself in a sea kayak or the wind is propelling you forward on a Downeast Friendship Sloop or the Margaret Todd, being on the water is a special part of a trip to Acadia National Park. 

Evenings will keep you on the run as well as you explore Mount Desert Island’s restaurant scene.  Many specialize in seafood and locally grown produce, but you’ll also find French bistro, authentic Mexican, tapas, and Cuban cuisine.  And what if it rains?  There are local breweries, bookstores, antique shops, movies, repertory companies, museums, and fashion purveyors that are sure to keep you entertained.  In fact, after a few days of hiking, biking, and kayaking, you might hope for a slight drizzle and an afternoon in the rocking chair of a local Maine library. 

For specific recommendations and contact information for guides, tours, restaurants, and inns, visit OUR ACADIA.  You can find special tips for when to visit, what to do on a rainy day, and how to pack.  It also features tips for fall trips and sample itineraries.

Under the Hood of a Maine Travel Blog

Design on my favorite new "Life is Good" t-shirt

One of the most exciting parts of writing a travel blog is watching the dashboard of visitor stats. It provides a clear view into consumer interests, albeit one restricted by search engine algorithms. As we race from summer into fall, let’s see if my stats reveal any surprises to Maine tourism trendwatchers.

I’ve been publishing a blog “A New Yorker Talks to Herself about Maine” for over a year now. I started it when I noticed that friends and co-workers in NYC began looking for escape routes once I started talking about Maine. I wanted to talk about how fast peregrines dive. They wanted to talk about a Sabathia fastball. I wanted to talk about hiking the Western Mountains vs. the ones near Bar Harbor. They wanted to talk about Gossip Girl vs. NYC Prep. The only solution was to give myself an outlet through blogging.

So, I now have 27 posts on WordPress. The most popular post I ever published was “22 Great Things to Do with Your Kids in Acadia National Park.” It was so strong — attracting eight times more visitors than my next most popular post – that I made it a permanent page on my Web site about Acadia. Three of my top 12 posts have to do with kids in Acadia.

That just goes to prove the old advertising adage: put kids or dogs in your commercial, and you’ll get more attention.

The next most surefire way to spark interest in a Maine blog has been to write about lobster. Three of my top seven posts are about lobster – whether it’s finding the best lobster roll, defining lobster pound, or comparing hard vs. soft-shell.

By the way, I was surprised to find virtually no interest at all in locating the best clam chowder. I got only three hits and one was from my neighbor Bill in Somesville.

You won’t be surprised that the big winners among my blogs this summer had to do with what to do on MDI if it rains! Those posts accelerated into the top ten.

According to Google, people search far more for “Bar Harbor” than “Acadia National Park,” especially during the summer. So, I frequently feature Bar Harbor in the title of my posts. That’s not an automatic key to success, however — two of my weakest five had Bar Harbor in the headline.

One of the things that has surprised me most is how few people are interested in reading about eco-tourism and Acadia. Twenty times more people wanted to find out the origin of the term “lobster pound” than sought to learn how Bar Harbor helps promote eco-tourism.

That’s a prime example of paying attention to what people do vs. say.

Finally, I published the same story about Diver Ed and the Dive-In Theatre under two different headlines. One compared the benefits of going out on the Starfish Enterprise as an alternative to whale watching. The other asked, “Can Three Graduates of NYC Prep Find Happiness Looking for Starfish on the Maine Coast?” (I thought I’d try to draft in behind the popularity of this new reality show.)

 I’m happy to report whale watching won. I feel vindicated about my favorite reality show.

“How Much Time Do We Need to See Acadia National Park in Maine?”

This is a frequently asked question among first-time visitors to New England, especially those who fly into Boston and want a “representative sample” of the scenic villages and ports along the Maine Coast. 

Who can blame them for wanting to see it all? 

“Breadth” vs. “depth” becomes the issue. 

Depending upon what kind of vacation you want to create for yourself, here’s an activity log for three different levels of time availability.  Think about what activities you most enjoy, how much “down time” you need, and if you want to incorporate outdoor adventures or time at the beach (or for shopping).  The amount of time you need for Acadia should then become clear!  

Three Days 

•  Drive the Park Loop Road, taking in the key sights such as Frenchman Bay, Ocean Trail, Thunder Hole, Otter Cliffs, and Jordan Pond
• Hike a trail from among the 130 miles of stunning, well-maintained routes on the island.  Consider Jordan Pond as a starting point so that you can efficiently include lunch or tea (popovers, lemonade, chowder) at Jordan Pond House
• Visit the “Quietside,” being sure to see Somes Sound, Somesville, Echo Lake, Bass Harbor Headlight, and the fishing village of Bass Harbor
• Have dinner at Thurston’s Lobster Pound in Bernard on the “Quietside”  

One  Week

•  Add in a sea kayaking tour – great from Bar Harbor in the morning, Southwest Harbor for sunset
• Take a horse-drawn carriage drive from Wildwood Stables, an Acadia tradition
• Shop in Bar Harbor and explore the waterfront 

Two Weeks

• Bike along any of Acadia’s 57 miles of scenic carriage roads
• Attend a ranger-led program, whether it’s to explore tidal pools or learn more about birds of prey
• Take a boat ride with Diver Ed in the Starfish Enterprise  or in a romantic, historic Friendship Sloop
• Work in a second hike on another part of the island – the views and terrain are so varied!
• Visit the village of Southwest Harbor to shop and have a lobster roll and blueberry pie
• Seek out a Maine public supper or flea market — and enjoy the company of locals
• Schedule a family rock-climbing expedition
• Visit an oceanarium with touch tanks to see marine life up close and personal
• Attend a tour of one of Mount Desert Island’s award-winning local breweries
• Take a nap on Sand Beach or at Echo Lake

Dining out is a big part of visiting Acadia.  The island’s eateries range from chic tapas bars to lobster pounds in the rough.  You may also want to picnic on a mountaintop or cook-out seaside.  Regardless, where to eat should be planned as part of your itinerary because you want to make getting around this 100-square-mile island most efficient.  Consult OUR ACADIA for reviews of the best places to eat.

OUR ACADIA also features recommendations for sea kayaking tours, kayaking rentals, bike rentals, and rock-climbing guides.  You may want to make reservations in advance, especially in the busiest vacation seasons.

Bar Harbor Restaurants: On the Quest for the Best New England Clam Chowder

If you’re in New York ordering clam chowder, you’re thinking Manhattan red versus New England white. But if you’re in Maine, believe it or not, the dichotomy can be even more extreme.

(You have to find the real thing. And, in my opinion, the success of the clam chowder is almost as important as the lobster roll when I’m visiting a local lobster pound.)

It’s all about the flour.

In New York – and even in Maine – people break Maine’s cardinal rule of great New England chowder: no flour. The so-thick-it-stands-up-to-a-spoon stuff is not the real thing in Maine. Instead, Mainers count on thickening the “chowdah” with the starch of the potatoes. Evaporated milk adds a creaminess. And the flavor deepens by sitting in the pot for a day or so.

Another key element of a great New England clam chowder is the salt pork. My mother always used salt pork in both corn and clam chowders (as well as string beans). Although she was from Massachusetts, her roots were French-American (Bellevue), a heritage which she shared with many Mainers. Some of the really good Maine cooks (I like Martha Greenlaw’s recipes a lot) substitute bacon for salt pork in clam chowder.

So, there we have it: bacon or salt pork, along with onion, for base flavor, potatoes and evaporated milk for the creaminess, butter, pepper – and the fish! The fish?

Last week on Mount Desert Island – we were hiking, biking, and kayaking in Acadia – I had chowder with clams, haddock, lobster, and scallops. Somehow mussels were out of this particular cycle. Here’s some of the best we tasted.

Jordan Pond House (Park Loop Road, Seal Harbor, 207-276-3316) has both a lobster stew and a seafood chowder that features scallops, shrimp, haddock and potatoes in a creamy – but not flour-thickened! – broth. Big plus: it’s served with their popovers.

Thurston’s (1 Thurston Road, Bernard, 207-244-7600), our favorite lobster pound for dinner, rotates from scallop to haddock to mussel chowder, but all are aged at least a day.  You believe it when you taste it.

Down East Lobster Pound (1192 Bar Harbor Road, Trenton, 207-667-8589) is the sleeper here. We were amazed at the amount of clams and haddock in their chowders. Ounce for ounce, there’s more fish here. And the buttery, milkly flavor is wonderful.

For more information and opinion on eating, exploring, and relaxing on a visit to Acadia National Park, visit OUR ACADIA. There’s a long list of restaurant reviews, as well as itineraries, tips for kids, and ideas on what to do on a rainy day.

Best Biking in Bar Harbor: Tips for Managing Labor Day Crowds

The author near Aunty Betty Pond

No matter how hard I try, it seems I can never get out of the house as early as I want on vacation.  And what that means in Acadia National Park at the height of the summer season is that the parking lots near the most popular biking spots may be full. 

With the bikes on the racks and the kids all ready to go, you’re stuck with a big…now what? 

Here’s a solution you might want to consider.  

One of the favorite bike routes in Acadia is around Eagle Lake.  The carriage road encircles this beautiful lake for close to six miles, passing by its shoreline and through its surrounding forests.  However, the parking lots at the south shore near Bubble Pond and at the north on Route 233 fill early. 

An alternative is to park at the Hull’s Cove Visitor Center on Route 3.  This is a huge lot that facilitates visitors to its information center.  At the parking lot’s far side is an entrance to the carriage road to Witch Hole Pond.  

You can start your ride here –don’t get discouraged by the very steep, but short hill up to the carriage road.  In 2.9 miles you’ll be at the northern entrance to Eagle Lake.  En route you’ll enjoy views of both Witch Hole Pond and Breakneck Ponds. 

For more mileage, you can detour to Aunt Betty Pond.  This will add a challenging, but fulfilling stretch over Seven Bridges.  You can then connect with the carriage road around Eagle Lake at the southern end of the lake. 

A beautiful place to stop and view the lake is at the northern end. 

You can return as you came along Witch Hole Pond or make another loop near Duck Brook Road to get back to the Visitor Center parking lot. 

Starting at Hull’s Cove gives you lots of alternatives for your bike ride and helps avoid the risk of crowded parking lots. 

For more information on what to do when you visit Acadia National Park, visit OUR ACADIA.  From reviews of Bar Harbor restaurants to tips about rock-climbing and kayaking guides, it will provide you with information and a point-of-view on how to make the most out of your Maine vacation.

To Whale Watch or Not: That is the Question for Families with Kids Visiting Acadia National Park

Check out the posts on TripAdvisor about whale watching, and you’ll find a lot of negatives – no whales, long trips, cold weather, and sea sickness. Still want to take your kids on a boat ride when you visit Acadia National Park? The Dive-In Theater gets rave reviews.

This five-star cruise leaves from a pier at College of the Atlantic in Bar Harbor on the aptly christened Starfish Enterprise. Last week we embarked upon our two-hour trip into Frenchman Bay, a body of water so deep and cold that it provides a rich habitat for an array of sea life. The bay is spotted with small islands, which further enrich the environment.

Suddenly the boat began to circle a small rock outcropping and there on the top sat a large bald eagle. Lying on rocks below and swimming in the area were about twenty harbor seals. Minutes of leaving this sighting, we spotted harbor porpoises gracefully creating arcs in the water.

But this was only the beginning of the show.

We moored at a dive site and Diver Ed suited up with considerable fanfare. Fanfare isn’t really the right word. It’s more shtick. (Clearly, only his love of Maine and kids has kept Ed from stand-up.)

Diver Ed

Mini Ed #104

With a little help from his friends, Diver Ed took the plunge with a collection bag, real-time video and sound equipment, and Mini Ed, his action figure alter ego, who would provide scale for the adventures on the ocean floor. We then learned that this was Mini Ed #104. (The prior 103 had been unsuccessful in their battles with lobsters and crabs from the deep.)

Sitting comfortably on our benches, we watched on a large projection screen as Mini Ed began to explore. I glanced away only occasionally to see such sights as the Margaret Todd sailing by.

Margaret Todd

What happened when Diver Ed returned with critters in tow? We touched them, of course.

Boy with Sea Cucumber

Animated instruction from Diver Ed

Whether a beautiful sea star (starfish to the uninitiated), slimy sea cucumber, or angry lobster, these creatures of Frenchman Bay were taken into temporary (and protective) custody in touch tanks, as we learned more. Did you know that sea stars can not only regenerate lost arms, but themselves be regenerated from a single arm?

Does he know he has a crab on his head?

We gently probed their varied surfaces. (I will not say the same for the four-year-olds who thrilled to the chaos of the touch tanks and, inhibition abandoned, initiated some aggressive dive-bombing with the lobsters.)

Kids at Touch Tank on Starfish Enterprise

Girl with Seastar

Most of the families on the cruise seemed to have four-year-olds in tow, but the three eighteen-year-olds who came with me were pretty enthusiastic. But I surpassed them all.

If you’d like more information about things to do in Maine, visit OUR ACADIA. You’ll find itineraries for a vacation to Acadia National Park, tips for restaurants, and 22 ideas for activities with kids.

Bound for Bar Harbor? Two New Favorite Restaurants When You Go to Acadia National Park

I go to Maine looking forward to hiking, biking, and kayaking in Acadia. 

I leave remembering the restaurants. 

We just returned from two great weeks on Mount Desert Island.  We didn’t get rained out a single day and the island was busy, but not crowded.  Since this is our fourth summer there, we have our favorite restaurants that we check in on – Town Hill Bistro, Red Sky, and, of course, Thurston’s Lobster Pound.  

But we also tried two spots new to us. 

When we arrived at XYZ in Manset, the place was packed.  The conversation of happy diners, red wainscoting, and colorful floral placemats ignited a buzz that was contagious.  Then I noticed another possible source of the excitement.  Just about every table was covered with the same elegant stemware – margaritas.  

In addition to a standard margarita, XYZ serves a special one that is made with higher quality tequila and Grand Marnier rather than Triple Sec.  (We tried both to validate the $2 price increment and can vouch for why everyone at the bar was ordering the “especial.”) 

We ended up sitting at the bar because the diners who had our table lingered so long over dessert.  Owner Janet Strong graciously helped push me and the comfy, upholstered bar seat into position. Then the fun really began.  Seated on each side of us were XYZ veterans – a well-traveled couple who had been coming to XYZ for fifteen years and the restaurant’s former bartender whose wife and children were out of town.   

We spied on what they were eating, consulted with the bartender, and conferred with each other to maximize the tasting opportunities.  We decided to start with an exquisite garlic soup and a pepper stuffed with cheese, both good enough to impress Rick Bayless.  We chose a shrimp entrée that featured another stuffed pepper and little tortillas – and got tips from the ex-bartender on how to compose something truly delicious.  Our other entrée was braised goat, deeply flavorful.  It wasn’t on the menu, a special dish chef Bob Hoyt had prepared for a large group.  When I asked about it, the owner brought my a little dish to try, which sealed the deal. 

Two warnings about XYZ: you need a reservation and you won’t find your Tex-Mex favorites here.  The name of the restaurant is the key.  XYZ stands for Xalapa, Yucatan, and Zacatecas – localities of Mexico’s interior and coast. 

The cuisine here is authentic and memorable, just like the name. 

We also ended up sitting at the bar at Mache Bistro in Bar Harbor.  I love sitting at the bar, but the clear message for you is that the restaurant scene on MDI is lively, and you need reservations at the best places to eat. 

Mache Bistro has a new chef, Kyle Yarborough, who taps his experience from Jordan Pond House, Seasons, and Havana, to deliver “a fresh approach to French bistro cuisine.”  You get wonderful local produce and seafood, prepared with flair, as evidenced by our choices.  We started with Maine crab and lobster cakes – made even more interesting with an olive and sun-dried tomato drizzle – and mussels prepared in a delectable chorizo, saffron, tomato, and wine sauce.  Yes, dip that bread.  

Entrée selections further illustrate Chef Kyle’s gastronomic schizophrenia.  A duck breast was served over a cassoulet of white beans and topped with smoked duck and a duck confit.  I think my scallops were among the best I have ever had, not only because they were so fresh, but I am guessing they were marinated in rosemary and pepper to produce such wonderful flavor.  They were served over rosemary polenta and topped with arugula and caramelized onions.  

For dessert we ordered the pain perdu, which was more of a bread pudding than French toast.  Guess what the topping was?  Blueberries, of course. 

In contrast to XYZ’s high-energy atmosphere, Mache Bistro is hushed.  I counted only eight tables and three couples at the bar.  Ceiling fans whir as couples whisper in the high-ceilinged room with pale green walls and burgundy accents.  With only a single accent of a pitcher of garden flowers on the bar, it’s almost ascetic. 

I wish I could drop by Mache Bistro’s bar often before a movie or a lecture for a glass of wine and grilled flat bread with crab, Manchego cheese and arugula.  The wine list, including a good selection of wines by the glass, is well chosen and fairly priced.  There were also a range of ports and dessert wines, and coffee was only $2. 

For more ideas on where to eat when you visit Bar Harbor, check out OUR ACADIA to read about our favorite lobster pounds, casual spots, and restaurants for a special night out.  There are also itineraries and tips for guides, kayaking tours, activities for kids, and places to stay.