A Red, White, and Blue Holiday in Maine…Goes Green

I crave an old-fashioned Fourth of July.

A pancake breakfast sponsored by the Rotary. A parade with lots of flags. A concert on the Village Green. Fireworks on a waterfront.

And that’s exactly what I am going to get because I’m going to spend this Fourth of July in Bar Harbor, Maine.

Chris Fogg, Executive Director of the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce, says, “We have a very traditional celebration that hits everything Maine is known for.” That means, of course, that there will be lots of blueberries and lobster. To benefit the YMCA scholarship program, local businesses will be racing lobsters in a “crustacean contest.” There will be a crafts fair featuring quilts, photographs, and porcelain dolls. And a highlight is the Seafood Festival in the local ballpark with a menu of lobster, mussels, corn, and strawberry shortcake.

There’s one new tradition that may surprise you, though. The town goes to extraordinary lengths to make the celebration as green as, well, a forest in Maine.

For the last three years the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce has been partnering with the MDI Rotary Club and College of the Atlantic in some interesting ways to make the Fourth of July Celebration more eco-friendly. The Blueberry Pancake Breakfast and Seafood Festival use materials, including napkins and eating utensils, which are recyclable and compostable. The “silverware” is made out of potatoes – another great product of Maine. With all of the shopping that goes on in this charming village, the Chamber of Commerce also sells shopping bags recycled from plastic bottles.

Although these measures are special for the holiday, they are not unusual for MDI. For example, L.L. Bean supports a network of propane-fueled buses to transport hikers, bikers, and sightseers around Acadia National Park, which occupies about two-thirds of the island. Called the Island Explorer, this system has carried over 2 million passengers, reduced smog-causing pollutants by more than 11 tons, and prevented the release of over 7,300 tons of greenhouse gases. And it’s free.

In fact, the island has a long history of eco-tourism. In the 1920s John D. Rockefeller, Jr. feared the impact of automobiles on Mount Desert Island. Collaborating with Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., the son of the designer of Central Park in New York, he helped develop the 27-mile Park Loop Road, a stunning roadway encircling Mount Desert Island and presenting breathtaking views to motorists – while protecting the island’s forests and wildlife.

So, if the wholesome holiday and eco-commitment haven’t convinced you where you want to spend America’s holiday, perhaps the outdoor agenda will. For an affordable family vacation in Maine, Acadia National Park offers 130 miles of hiking trails and 57 miles of car-free carriage roads for biking. From whale watching to oceanariums, there are lots of things to do with kids in Acadia.

For more information about Bar Harbor’s Fourth of July celebration, check out the Events calendar at www.barharborinfo.com. For personal tips and candid reviews on what to do and where to eat, visit OUR ACADIA.

How to Choose a Sea Kayaking Tour to Explore the Scenic Waterways around Acadia National Park

Approaching the Porcupine Islands off Bar Harbor

If you visit Acadia National Park, you have to see it from the water. 

There are sailing trips, scenic nature cruises, and whale watching.  But I most enjoy being close to the water and motoring under my own power in a kayak. 

The bays and straits around Mount Desert Island, of which the park occupies about two-thirds, offer the chance to see harbor seals, porpoises, eagles, and osprey.  Seeing the rocky, tree-lined coast from the vantage point of the ocean is special unto itself.  Kayaking tours not only make the experience safe and convenient, but open up your eyes to many of the subtleties of different eco-systems. Novices get lessons and a little practice before the group takes off.  Of course, all of the gear is included, and most companies offer trips of different durations. 

On the first trip I ever took a man who had kayaked with his family the day before was back alone for a sunset paddle.  That’s how impressive the experience was… 

So, how do you select a kayaking tour?

On Mount Desert Island the primary criterion is location: do you want to kayak in Frenchman Bay off of Bar Harbor or along the island’s western coastline known as the “Quiet Side”? 

Sea Kayaking Western Bay

This was the subject of a lively debate recently on TripAdvisor’s Maine forum.  Since I’ve kayaked in both locations myself, I’ll try to sort out the “pro’s” and “con’s” for you, but you should check out the string of posts for recommendations of several different sea kayaking companies. 

Fans of Frenchman Bay like the proximity to their lodging and touring around the Porcupine Islands, a cluster of four small, but dramatic islands.  Detractors cite the water traffic.  Kayaking tours in Bar Harbor such as Aquaterra Adventures leave directly from the dock, which is something folks also like; other guides such as Coastal Kayaking take guests along with all of the gear in vans and leave from the shoreline. 

Kayaking Jordan Pond (Bubbles in Background)

That’s also the case with Maine State Kayaking Tours, which operates out of Southwest Harbor.  They paddle in the area of Western Bay.  Their fans talk about the serenity and beauty of these trips, especially those at sunset. 

I share my take on two different tours on both sides of the island at OUR ACADIA under reviews of Aquaterra and Maine State.  There’s also information there about renting kayaks to explore Acadia’s glacial lakes. 

Regardless of which kayaking tour or venue you choose for your first trip, it will only give your perspective on what’s so great – and different – about your second!

The author proudly poses with her kayak in front of  Great Long Pond.  She enjoys kayaking on the ocean, as well as MDI’s lakes and Somes Sound.  The agenda of a favorite day in Acadia is to hike up Beech Mountain in the morning, picnic, then kayak on Long Pond.  For more ideas on how to explore the waterways, trails, restaurants, and markets of Mount Desert Island, visit OUR ACADIA.

A Top Pick for Your Maine Vacation: See Scenic Acadia National Park in a Horse-Drawn Carriage

Things to do in Acadia National Park include biking, hiking, and kayaking.  My daughter would definitely put rock climbing on her list, and I think you have to eat at a nearby lobster pound. But one of the top-ranking activities among a very broad group of travelers is a carriage tour. 

Why?  Perhaps it’s because that’s the way the carriage roads of Acadia National Park were meant to be experienced.  These unique gravel byways were constructed by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. as a means to get deep into Mount Desert Island and to keep cars out.  Mr. Rockefeller, himself a skilled horseman, drove a carriage along these scenic roads that encircle mountains, pass over stone-faced bridges, and skirt meadows. 

Today some 20,000 visitors travel the same historic roads on tours offered by Wildwood Stables. 

Wildwood Stables

This year tours will start June 6 and run to October 18.  They feature the horse-drawn “Acadia Sociable” wagonette which holds 12 to 16 people.  There are four different tours, available for one- or two-hour drives throughout the day.  Although they all book quickly, the most popular are the morning drive on Pemetic Mountain to “Cobblestone Bridge” and the sunset trip to Day Mountain.  Wildwood’s new manager, Mike Carpenter, is considering additional routes for 2009, including one that’s a circuit from Jordan Pond House, the scenic spot for lemonade and popovers. 

The “five-star” popularity of the carriage tours seems to result as much from the charm of the carriage drivers as the scenery.  Visitors rave about the information, history, and humorous anecdotes.  Scan TripAdvisor and you’ll see “I hated it to end” and “I would definitely do it again.” 

One reason to book again, even if you’ve enjoyed a carriage drive before, will be the new emphasis on the horses themselves.  Wildwood’s new manager hopes to have at least one representative of the six or seven major breeds of draft horses at the stable.  Having grown up with horses on a farm, he believes that giving visitors more interaction with the animal power – even letting them touch the horses – will enhance the experience of a visit to Wildwood. 

And if you’re planning a romantic vacation on Mount Desert Island, consider a special charter in a surrey or vis-a-vis “wedding carriage” like the ones in Central Park.  According to Mr. Carpenter, that’s one thing both newlyweds and couples celebrating anniversaries put on their lists of things to do in Acadia National Park. 

Want to include a carriage drive on your trip to Acadia National Park?  Visit Carriages of Acadia to find out more.  Reservations can be made by calling 1-877-276-3622.

Visit OUR ACADIA for more ideas about exploring, eating, and relaxing in Acadia National Park.  It includes things to do with kids and options for rainy days.

 

 

10 Things to Do with Your Kids on a Rainy Day in Acadia National Park

“What if it rains?” is the question that haunts every mother planning a vacation that’s focused on biking, hiking, and the beach. 

Don’t worry.  Bar Harbor and the surrounding communities on Mount Desert Island offer lots of good options to combat cabin fever if it rains.  Here are a few ideas, courtesy of Bar Harbor locals.  

Your kids are sure to love them as long as you don’t say the word “educational.” 

1. Learn about lobsters – Visit the lobster hatchery and museum at the Mount Desert Oceanarium .  There are touch tanks and other hands-on exhibits, including phones for listening to the songs of whales. 
2. Take in a show - Acadia Repertory Theatre  in picturesque Somesville does adaptations of children’s classics every year.  Last summer they performed “Snow White and Rose Red” every   Wednesday and Saturday morning…see what their 37th season holds!
3. Play with LEGOS designed by MIT to see how DNA divides and mutates.  Plus, there are touch tanks and an aquarium at the Mount Desert Island Biological Laboratory, a renowned research institution, which welcomes children on Monday and Wednesday mornings.
4. See a movie – Check out to see what’s playing at Reel Pizza  in Bar Harbor where, in addition to theatre seats, there are couches and recliners and, in addition to popcorn and soda, delicious fresh-dough gourmet pizza. 
5. Enjoy a story - Jesup Memorial Library in Bar Harbor has summertime story hours with special guests.  On the other side of the island, the Southwest Harbor Public Library also hosts story time for both toddlers and pre-schoolers, where older siblings are welcome.  Both get rave reviews from local parents.
6. Visit the Bar Harbor Whale Museum – Unlike a lot of the other activities that are only open two days a week, this museum — dedicated to the whales and seals common to the Gulf of Maine — is open seven days a week.  Tell the kids they can walk underneath a real humpback whale skeleton.
7. Take a family swim – MDI YMCA offers a family day pass for $16.  In addition to the pool, there’s a basketball court.  Check out the family swim times before you go.
8. Go to college – Dorr Museum on the campus of College of the Atlantic has a touch-tank where kids can see starfish, sea cucumbers and various other sea life first hand.  There’s a gift shop, too, with a wonderful selection of books, gifts, toys and jewelry related to the natural sciences.
9. Learn about Native Americans - Older children (6-15) with an interest in Native American heritage may enjoy visiting the Abbe Museum to learn about the Wabanaki Indians, Maine’s native people.  There are two locations, Sieur de Monts Spring in Acadia National Park and downtown Bar Harbor.
10. Find a porch – With an old-fashioned board game and a few picture books, you can enjoy the sound of the rain.  This might just end up being the most relaxing point in your vacation. 

For more ideas of great things to do with your kids – both rain and shine! – visit OUR ACADIA.  You’ll also find tips for restaurants, guides for kayaking and family rock climbing trips, ideas for what to pack, and a lot more.

Soft vs. Hard Shell Lobster? The Final Word.

View from my favorite lobster pound

Every time I go to Acadia National Park to hike, bike, and kayak, my vacation itinerary includes a trip to a lobster pound.  OK, often two.  So here, after much research, is the point-of-view of this New Yorker on the soft vs. hard shell lobster debate.

Here are the two sides.  Fans of soft shell lobsters claim they are sweeter and easier to eat because they can be cracked by hand.  Lovers of hard shells point to more meat and a firmer consistency.

Let’s draw on a little science about Homarus americanus.  Lobsters shed their shells (or molt) throughout their lives.  After they grow a new shell inside the old one, they drink a lot of water which expands their body size and infuses the new shell, causing it to expand and break the old one.  The new shell is softer.  While it hardens, there’s a layer of seawater that helps insulate the lobster’s body.

And, to me, that’s the insight.  The seawater acts as kind of a secret marinating agent to make the meat of the soft shell lobster undeniably sweeter.  It’s more tender and delectable.

So, if taste is your priority, order a soft shell.  But keep in mind two other considerations.  First, eating a soft shell lobster is a messier process.  When you crack it open, be prepared for the torrent of “marinating liquid” to spew forth! The other negative is a soft shell will have relatively less meat for the same poundage. Lower prices will compensate for this, but you must remember to order a larger size.  My favorite lobster pound on Mount Desert Island recommends at least a quarter of a pound more.

You are not likely to get a soft shell lobster in a New York restaurant or delivered by mail because hard shells are more durable for shipping.  So, if you are on Mount Desert Island at the end of the summer, which is the molting season for that part of New England, the choice should be clear. A soft shell lobster is a special seasonal treat if you’re lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time.

Mount Desert Island in Maine is home not only to Acadia National Park, but to charming inns, wonderful antiquing, topnotch spas and great restaurants.  For some of my favorites, including several lobster pounds, visit OUR ACADIA.

Put away your Blackberries and turn off the video games. It’s time for family nature camp in Maine.

Why do kids have all the fun?  Surely, in this economy parents need a real break, too.  Now College of the Atlantic in Bar Harbor, Maine, has the perfect solution – a sensibly priced vacation of nature programs, boat trips, hiking, and biking.  It all takes place on Mount Desert Island, one of the world’s most beautiful islands.

 

The first big difference about this camp is that all activities are intended for the whole family.   The program is best-suited for children who are at least 5, but there doesn’t seem to be an upper-age limit.  Even the most skeptical adolescents, who dread the experience will be “lame,” seem to leave bestowing accolades. 

 

In fact, so many people end up loving Family Nature Camp that COA has designed special field trips designated for returning families.

 

Experienced staff helps plan activities for each family.  Most days are spent participating in two or three programs, including field trips with naturalists and local experts.  Activities are conducted at the college, which occupies 35 oceanfront acres, and in adjacent Acadia National Park.  What kind of activities?  Well…

 

• Go on a whale watch 25 miles off the coast; if you’re lucky, you’ll see not only whales, but also harbor seals, gray seals, pods of harbor porpoises and North Atlantic puffins. 
• Learn about the business and politics of the Maine fishermen.  Check out farming pens where Atlantic salmon are raised and watch your captain haul lobster traps. 
• Go on a boat trip where the divers bring back a bag of underwater creatures such as lobsters, sea stars, scallops, sea cucumbers and other surprises – which you get to hold. 
• Visit “active” beaver sites and get a close look at beaver lodges. 
• Discover incredible facts about bats (some eat fish; other make tents!) and hear their ultrasound echolocation with the aid of a bat detector. 

In addition, there’s free time for self-guided hikes, walks, and other activities.  (Sea kayaking is available for an additional fee.) Transportation is provided for most field trips, but families can be pretty independent as well.  For example, you can walk or take the free bus to the village of Bar Harbor to enjoy the shops, restaurants, art shows, and evening concerts.

 

Everyone stays in the College of Atlantic student housing on a campus that’s one of the “greenest” in America and eats in the college cafeteria.  Although the rooms and shared bathrooms are Spartan, meals include bountiful New England fare such as homemade fish chowder, chicken pot pie, and blueberry cobbler.  (If your kids have had past vacations staying in plush hotels with room service, there might be a lesson in these accommodations, too.)

 

 

Family Nature Camp rates are: Full Week – $900 for participants 16-years-old and older; $450 for children 15-years-old and under; Half Week – $500 for participants 16-years-old and older; $250 for children 15-years-old and under. These fees include housing, all meals, activities, field trips, and three boat trips! 

 

Now that’s an “eco-tourist’s all-inclusive.”

Summer 2009 Sessions: July 5-11, July 19-25, July 26-August 1, August 2-8.  For more information, visit College of the Atlantic Family Nature Camp.

For more information about Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park, visit OUR ACADIA.

 

 

 

Acadia National Park in Maine: Great for the Kids and Affordable, Too!

 

Discover family fun that's free in Acadia National Park

Unemployment numbers and 401K statements don’t put any of us in the mood for planning a great summer vacation.  But before you give up and give into a staycation, consider Mount Desert Island in Maine. 

 

MDI is the third largest island on the East Coast and has such spectacular scenery that it is regularly ranked among the most beautiful islands in the world.  Yet, for families on a budget, it offers affordable places to stay, lots of dining options, and great things to do with kids of all ages.  

 

What To Do 

The main reason to visit – or, I would say, covet – Mount Desert Island is because it is home to Acadia National Park.  Occupying two-thirds of the island, this national treasure has 130 miles of hiking trails, including those to the top of Cadillac Mountain, the highest peak on the eastern coast of the U.S., which you can also summit by roadway.  There are also 57 miles of car-free carriage roads, where walkers, cyclists and horse-drawn carriages wind around lakes, streams, and evergreen forests. 

 

For parents who want to “get the kids outside,” this is the answer.

 

An entrance pass to the park costs $20 and admits one vehicle for seven days.  But it’s also your pass for a lot of entertainment.  Park rangers host daily walks, talks, amphitheatre programs, and cruises.  Parents will be as eager as the kids to learn about birds of prey, insects in a stream, and the stars over Sand Beach.  Or families may want to split up — while Dad takes the kids to look for frogs and tadpoles during “A Frog’s Life,” Mom can get a lesson on photographing wildflowers.  Most programs are free, although some do require nominal fees; many are customized for different age groups.

 

Oh, did you say teenagers?  Don’t worry.  My experience with teens in Acadia is they enjoy the hiking, biking, and kayaking as long as you also schedule some beach time at Sand Beach.  Another big benefit is the island offers a free Island Explorer bus on eight different routes, so that teens can head into town independently to explore the shops and visit the Internet café.

 

Apart from the many activities in Acadia National Park itself, there are museums, whaling trips, miniature golf courses, and lots of other great things to do with kids on Mount Desert Island, especially in its largest town, Bar Harbor.

 

Where To Stay

If you have camping equipment, you can cut your lodging expenses to $20 a night and enjoy the beautiful wooded campgrounds of Acadia.  The two primary park campgrounds are Blackwoods Campground and Seawall Campground, both within a 10-minute walk of the ocean.  The island’s towns, especially Bar Harbor, also offer a wide range of motels, cottages, and B&B’s. 

 

But a great way to save money is to rent a house so that you can avoid eating all of your meals in restaurants.  Bring some basics from home and go to one of the local markets and farm stands on arrival.  I just checked the listings at one of Mount Desert Island’s top realtors and found a new 3-bedroom log cabin-style house with a deck — five minutes from the national park and 10 minutes to downtown Bar Harbor – that is $1250/week.  Some realtors have told me that there is actually a greater supply of rental properties on MDI than demand, so this may be a good year to try some bargaining.

 

Getting There

Mount Desert Island is a little over three hours north of Portland.  For a family it can be a great drive with a lot of interesting places to stop.  Another option is to fly to Portland on JetBlue, which has low-price fares from New York’s JFK, and rent a car there.  Because there’s the free bus service on the island, you may even want to consider one of the eight car-free options of getting to Mount Desert Island. 

 

More Money-Saving Tips

ü       Bring your own bikes to cut out those steep rental fees.

ü       If you’re renting a house or cottage, look for one that also offers a kayak.

ü       Take the Island Explorer bus around the island and save on gas.

ü       Research options to some of the more costly cruise tours.  Local museums research laboratories have touch tanks — even if there aren’t all the bells and whistles of the commercial operations.

ü       Do a little research and find an outdoor concert, book sale, or national park program as an alternative to more expensive movies or shopping trips.

ü       Cook out ocean-side at one of Acadia’s great picnic areas, including Seawall and Pretty Marsh, with grills provided by the park service.

ü       When you finally splurge on lobster (as you should!), choose a lobster pound that offers options for your kids if they prefer grilled chicken or even PB&J. 

 

For more information on how to explore, eat, and relax on your visit to Acadia National Park, visit OUR ACADIA.  You’ll find tips on the best times to visit, what to pack, and great things to do on a rainy day. 

 

 

 

 

A New Year’s Eve Taste Test of Maine Lobsters

Clubs, cruises, restaurants, and, of course, Times Square are all options for welcoming the New Year in New York City. This year we decided to stay home and celebrate with one of our favorite feasts – Maine lobster. But a dilemma immediately presented itself: should we buy them from a nearby Manhattan market, especially with prices on the decline, or have them shipped from Mount Desert Island, our second home, and support the local lobstermen? We chose to do both and to conduct a side-by-side taste test in the process.

My tasting partner offered excellent credentials for this experiment. He is pragmatic, but also passionate about lobster, having commenced craving these crustaceans almost fifty years ago at camp clambakes and Lundy’s, the venerable seafood institution in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn. I, on the other hand, a born-and-bred New Englander, have only been eating lobster with great regularity since I started spending so much time on MDI several years ago, but it’s been enough to cause me to eschew lobster at fancy New York restaurants even when somebody else is paying for it! It just has no taste. (I make an exception for Pearl’s lobster rolls.)

We started speculating about our taste test. If both of our lobsters are originally from Maine’s cold waters and we cook them at home with the same technique, shouldn’t the quality be close to equivalent? If there’s a difference, which will be more detrimental to the flavor, time spent in a shipping carton or in a tank of pseudo saltwater?

We began our research into retailers. Although my dad recently paid $4.95/lb. at his local New Hampshire supermarket, it was clear that we wouldn’t get anything near that price in New York City, despite the so-called lobster glut. Citarella on the Upper West Side was charging $12.99/lb. for larger lobsters and $9.99/lb. for smaller ones. Fairway, which seemed to be doing an incredible volume with everything over the holidays, charged $9.99/lb. for Maine lobster regardless of size. We went with Fairway.

For our MDI source, we chose H.R. Beal and Son in Southwest Harbor, a family business going back two generations that ships nationwide year-round. In fact, they’re open seven days a week and only close for Christmas. When I told Helen there what we were doing, she seemed to think we were nuts. The price for two lobsters from Beal’s was $81 because of packing materials and overnight freight. Thinking about the expense of those prix fixe dinners at New York restaurants, I forged ahead and ordered two to amortize the cost of shipping over more lobster meat, some of which we’d hold in reserve for lobster salad on New Year’s Day.

Our Beal’s lobsters arrived the next day, still active in their carton of wet newspapers after their Fed Ex journey, and our Fairway catch scratched away in his plastic bag. We carefully considered the pro’s and con’s of boiling vs. steaming, opting for the latter to preserve a little more flavor. The Maine Lobster Council also says that it’s harder to overcook a lobster with steaming. After careful timing and pouring more champagne, we were ready to taste. There was no doubt. The lobster express-shipped from Maine was distinctly sweeter.

If you plan two days in advance, Beal’s has another option for you. Until January 15th, Helen said, they’re offering a special of four 1-1/2 pounders, cooked and delivered, for $82. Since these lobsters are cooked in sea water, they are supposed to have even better flavor. You could invite some friends and do a taste test. Happy 2009.

For more information about Maine’s lobster pounds and planning a trip to Acadia National Park, visit OUR ACADIA, all about exploring, eating, and relaxing on Mount Desert Island. 

“His” and “Her” Top Picks for Romantic Things to Do This Fall in Acadia National Park

The kids are back in school.  (Did I hear applause?)  With their exodus from Acadia National Park’s trails and carriage roads, a hush blankets the island.  While the sun is still golden warm, crimson hues appear on the mountains.  Exclamations and giggles yield to quiet whisperings between couples.  It’s a great time to be grown up and visiting Mount Desert Island.

 

Hiking, biking, and kayaking are still at the top of our list of favorite things to do during Acadia’s autumn.  The clear, crisp Maine air makes it a perfect time for these outdoor activities.  But there are many other pastimes for honeymooners and couples celebrating a special anniversary.  We both enjoyed the assiduous research we did for you to yield these recommendations!

 

 

“His” Top Picks

 

• Rent a house with a fireplace –There are many rentals that are particularly cozy in the fall. Recently the Davis Agency Web site featured a log cabin nestled in the woods, a rustic cottage from which to enjoy sunsets over Blue Hill Bay, and a waterfront home with a large granite fireplace on the deck! 
• Enjoy a sunset at Bartlett’s Landing – A map will help you locate this serene harbor on the western side of Mount Desert Island.  Bring a bottle of wine and a fleece blanket, and don’t forget your camera.
• Go for a walk to Ship Harbor and collect shells – This easy walk on a figure-eight trail through the pines brings you along the harbor and finally to a great picnic spot facing the ocean.  If it’s a sunny October day, you may not even need your fleece.
• Leave enough time for an afternoon “nap”  - There’s so much to do in Acadia so be careful not to over-schedule.  Take time just to relax. 

 

“Her” Top Picks

 

• Charter a sailboat – Viewing the fall foliage from the ocean is a special privilege.  And through mid-October you can do this on a beautiful and historic Friendship Sloop.  Downeast Friendship Sloop offers private charters for $120/hour.  Your captain will bring the brie and baguette, as well as soft drinks.  But why not stop at Sawyer’s Specialties (353 Main Street, Southwest Harbor, 244-3317) for a bottle of Pinot Noir?
• Relax with a “couples” massage – My tension melts away just sitting in the wicker-filled waiting area of the spa at the Bar Harbor Inn.  Couples massages are given in larger treatment rooms that accommodate the two massage tables and two technicians.  Each of you can select the massage type – hot stone, sports, deep tissue – you prefer.  There’s no extra charge for the couples room.
• Get a corner table at Red Sky – Although there are many great restaurants on Mount Desert Island, Red Sky in Southwest Harbor gets votes from both of us as the most romantic.  Start with one of Elizabeth’s martinis at the bar and then move to dinner in the dining room where a central fireplace enhances the glow.  Duck with a port wine demi-glace and dried fruit compote is my fall favorite, but you might opt for a special, such as squash-filled ravioli with a touch of savory crème fraiche.  Don’t depart without sharing an individual apple pie and a glass of Calvados. 

 

Acadia is wonderful in autumn, but it requires a bit more planning.  Some restaurants close after Labor Day and others may be totally booked if you don’t reserve in advance.  If you’re planning to go, check out the 16 tips for fall trips here – so nothing will ruin the mood.  And fall in love again this fall in Maine

 

 

How to Avoid the Labor Day Crowds in Bar Harbor

 

Beech Mountain Labor Day 2007

You want to get away to Bar Harbor. The lobster is sweeter. It’s 10 degrees cooler. And it’s so much more “pristine” than the Cape and the Islands.

The problem is that other people think so, too.

That doesn’t mean that Bar Harbor will be “crowded.” It’s all relative. What’s important to remember is that Bar Harbor is only one town among several on Mount Desert Island, which is one of the largest islands on the eastern seaboard. If you plan ahead and are just a bit strategic, you will hardly notice it is a major holiday weekend in Acadia National Park. Here are 7 tips to promote your serenity:

 

1. Hike the Western Mountains – Some of my favorite trails are in the Bar Harbor and Ocean Drive regions – but you won’t catch me there on a big holiday weekend. Instead I head to the western mountains (Beech and Western) or those on the western shore of Somes Sound (St. Sauveur, Acadia and Flying Mountain).

2. Try Echo Lake instead of Sand Beach – Sand Beach is guaranteed to be packed and the parking lot full. Instead you might try the sand beach at the southern end of Echo Lake on the “quiet side” of Mount Desert Island. Even if it’s more crowded than usual, you can get some solitude by swimming out into this beautiful glacial lake.

3. Kayak in Western Bay vs. Frenchman’s Bay – Great paddling companies operate in both areas. However, if you’re looking for a more peaceful alternative to all of the tour boats and general activity that emanate from Bar Harbor, I can tell you that I have had sublime experiences with Maine State Kayak.

4. Try restaurants in Southwest Harbor or Town Hill – One of my favorite restaurants on the planet is Havana in Bar Harbor. However, if you’re worried about parking in Bar Harbor, you might opt for the outstanding dining at either Red Sky or Town Hill Bistro for a special night out at the end of August.

5. Picnic in Pretty Marsh – In fact, you might pick up something from the new Town Hill Wine and Cheese Shop and go out to Pretty Marsh. If you’d like a more substantial dinner, there are cooking grills at the picnic area there. Enjoy the sunset from the rocky coastline on Pretty Marsh Bay.

6. Cycle around Witch Hole and Aunt Betty’s Pond – One of the most popular places to bike, and rightfully so, is Eagle Lake. However, on Labor Day Weekend, you’re likely to find the parking lot full and cars lining the roadway in both directions. Instead, consider starting your ride from Hulls Cove Visitor Center, which has a very large parking lot. Get a good topographical map from Map Adventures so you can gauge the terrain and plan any of a variety of routes. Remember, there are 57 miles of carriage roads in Acadia, so let’s spread out.

7. Make reservations now – If you’re thinking of exploring the park by horse-drawn carriage, call Wildwood Stables a week in advance to see if spots are still open. Interested in a massage to celebrate relaxation on Labor Day? Consider Bar Harbor Inn and call in advance for your spa service. Restaurants? Do a little research in advance and, as they say, call now!

It was Samuel de Champlain who named Mount Desert in 1604, saying in his journal, “The mountain summits are all bare and rocky.” On this Labor Day I hope you find that some, if not bare and devoid of visitors, are at least plentifully peaceful.